Fashion
The Keffiyeh: Politics or Fashion?

Photo: Keffiyeh-inspired scarves, taken from Runway 2 Reality.
So I'm shopping at the Simon's at Carrefour Laval when I come across a cool black and white scarf. I check out the tag; at $15, the price is right. The decision to buy takes a split second and I power it down to the check-out counter. Later that week, I'm wearing my scarf and knocking back beers with some friends at Foufs when a guy from my alternative media class pops out of nowhere and asks: "Are you trying to make a political statement with that?" "That" turns out to be the scarf. Confused and a little pissed off from being tipsy, I say: "I got this for $15 at Simon's. How political can it be?" The answer turns out to be: very.
After a slight hangover the next day, I get to researching. The scarf I bought at a retail powerhouse? None other than the prime symbol of Palestinian solidarity: the keffiyeh, otherwise known as a shemagh, a ghutra, or a hatta. It's a traditional Arab headdress for men usually made from cotton, folded and wrapped in various ways around the head. Some wear it loosely draped around the back and shoulders. There are many local variations.The all-white ones are popular in the Gulf States, the black and white in the Levant, and the red and white in Jordan.

The keffiyeh grew into a symbol of Palestinian nationalism in the 1960s and eventually became a trademark of late Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat. He wore his black and white scarf in a distinctive arrangement, draping it over his right shoulder in a triangular shape that mimicked the outlines of Palestine. Another Palestinian associated with the keffiyeh is Leila Khaled, formerly of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP) and currently a member of the Palestinian National Council. Khaled wore her keffiyeh wrapped around her head and shoulders like a Muslim hijab. Since the keffiyeh was linked to Arab masculinity, many saw this as a political statement of armed equality.

The idea of the keffiyeh as a fashion trend has been around since the '80s, but has enjoyed a massive comeback in recent years. Many college-age Europeans and North Americans see it as a symbol of solidarity with the Palestinian cause or a sign of war resistance in general. It's gotten to the point where even shops like Urban Outfitters and Topshop churned out keffiyehs in a variety of colors like hot pink and dark green. In 2007, Urban Outfitters pulled their "anti-war scarves" from the shelves after much controversy. The subject of "fashion keffiyehs" has been thoroughly dissected by the blogosphere and garnered lots of resistance on the web. On Facebook alone, there at least a handful of anti-"fashion keffiyeh" groups with names like "Palestinian Scarves are the 'fashion-wear' of the cerebrally challenged" and "STOP Fashion Keffiyeh."
Tell the truth, I'm a pussy when it comes to foaming-at-the-mouth political activists and avoid the subject of politics like the dickens. But I think people have a point when they say that wearing the keffiyeh as a fashion statement is insensitive and shallow. I get annoyed when hipsters walk around with a Mao messenger bag (nothing as spacious as a megalomaniacal ego, I suppose), so why should keffiyehs be any different? Think of the hammer and sickle, think of Che Guevara, think of the swastika. No matter how much we'd like to pretend that a scarf is just a scarf, the reality is that symbols can never be divorced from their meanings. So I'm gonna retire my "desert jacquard scarf" from Simon's (pictured above right) since I know jack shit about what it stands for. $15 to broaden my horizons -- the price is right, indeed.

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2. Mel, I'm curious: do you wear the scarf out and about? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by "normal person scarf." Are you saying that if the scarf is sold at Simon's, then it's harmless?
jeffrey.konig@hotmail.com
And Jenny, I'll be the first to admit I'm politically clueless. It did cross my mind that the scarf at Simon's might be a keffiyeh, but I figured a major retailer wouldn't stick something like that on their shelves. I guess both Simon's and I are tools.
I share the same skepticism about keffiyehs being sold commercially, but instead of raging against the military-industrial complex, it might be more constructive for people to know that there are a variety of Palestinian groups and organizations that sell these scarves to raise money. If there is a lecture on a university campus near you, chances are there will be a table of goods used for fundraising, and there are also a host of ways to buy keffiyehs online that directly benefit Palestinians or their struggle. This obviously would not help a person like yourself Sisi, who was clueless about the scarf's importance when you bought it, but would certainly be of use if a friend were to ask where to get one. There are ways to buy things ethically.
Although the problem of the keffiyeh being traditionally worn only by ethnic Arabs can be overcome by appealing to the cross-fertilizing of cultures happening not only in the fashion world (although not without a hint of Orientalist mind-set), there is definitely a vague political statement being made when one wears the keffiyeh. That is, it represents an amount of solidarity with the Palestinian cause. Whereas a Palestinian might wear a keffiyeh as a symbol of identity, others who are educated about the situation tend to wear it as a symbol of their sympathy with the struggle. However, as a statement, what does it specifically refer to? It cannot tell you if the wearer believes in and independant Palestinian state or a one-state solution, whether they support a peaceful solution to the conflict or violent resistance. For some Jews, it has become a symbol of anti-Semitism because of its frequent adoption by all sorts of groups. Beyond the different colours representing different political movements, the symbol can only be a vague statement of opinion.
There is another facet to this problem that was not brought up: even among those who consciously wear the keffiyeh to make a political "statement", such a "statement" remains just that, and can be seen as hipsterism if it is not matched with any kind of action. If somebody wears a keffiyeh, can talk about Israel-Palestine, but does nothing with this opinion, then why bother with the political statement in the first place? In this example consumerism is sneakily substituted for concrete action, which is a shame as the conflict is not buried in the past but alive and can be guided/moved forward by mass action.
I don't particularly like Simon's making a profit off the sale of these scarves because it trivializes the reality, and I think it's too bad that people buy them without knowing the issues involved, but at the same time it's good to hear that your experience led to research, whatever your decision about wearing it in the future is. Remember that the person who will confront you aggressively about wearing a keffiyeh might have legitimate concerns about cultural appropriation (for this, check out Dina Awad's piece: http://www.shakomako.net/scarf.html), but might also just be a cultural snob who is hypocritically judging people as hipsters without doing more for the cause than being slightly better informed about what the keffiyeh signifies.
and you know what? i've got two mao bags and three che shirts.
The reasons that you don't wear your keffiyeh are why I don't wear Mao and Che gear: I don't believe in the politics of it. I like Che, but I don't like him enough to wear a shirt about it. I like Mao's ideas (he's actually pretty smart), but I'd never call him an idol, especially for the mess that is Chinese Communism. But, I know these things. a lot of people who wear this stuff don't, and that's why I respect your decision so much.
And, in full disclosure, I just bought two authentic (and high quality, unlike some of these cheap looking ones I see) keffiyehs from an Arab in NYC. While not aiding Palestine (I found out about that after I'd already paid), I am going to wear it to show my solidarity with their efforts to gain a state, even though I don't agree with all strategies being used.
It's now viewed as a political symbol (Yasser Arafat), terrorism symbol(I'm not sure why it's viewed as support towards terrorism, but maybe it's because the Arabs wear them? I'm not sure myself, but I've just heard of it. Someone tell me about this too.), and etc.
But it was made in the beginning before all of this, and it was for a simple reason, to make ourselves comfortable.
So I don't know why we can't take this lightly and see it as just a scarf. For comfort and maybe fashion.
Somone please enlighten me?
Your point about comfort and practicality is questionable. Why would anyone need to protect themself from the sun and sand in cooler, urban areas and on fashion runways?
The black and white keffiyeh is the most recognizable clothing worn by Palestinian terrorists. Those of you wearing the keffiyeh show solidarity with extremely violent people. You wouldn't wear a white hood like a klansman or a swastika armband like a nazi. Why would you want to wear a keffiyeh like a member of Hamas unless you hated Israel and supported the mass murder of Jews?
Second, I love how you stated that you retired from wearing it because you knew "jack-shit" about it. Thank you. It is really annoying to see people wearing it as a fashion statement and not knowing what the hell its means. And if someone does want to wear it as a fashion statement (because they are quite pretty), at least have some knowledge towards the situation in Palestine.
Nice article.
Second, I love how you stated that you retired from wearing it because you knew "jack-shit" about it. Thank you. It is really annoying to see people wearing it as a fashion statement and not knowing what the hell its means. And if someone does want to wear it as a fashion statement (because they are quite pretty), at least have some knowledge towards the situation in Palestine.
Nice article.
I bought one for myself a couple weeks ago but until i do further research on this topic i will not be rockin' the scarf around town.
I know these scarves are really hott right now but personally i need to know what statement im making with what i wear.
D
there had been many debates about this subject since Palestinians started to see what's actually happening to their own symbols! it even got more active when we started to spot some Palestinians wearing those colored kuffiehs !
this is a very serious problem, i think...
i really thank u for your article and i wish there would be much more articles about the Palestinian symbols and the awareness of the Palestinian kuffieh as a very important symbol that means a lot to many Palestinians and Arabs...
this is not a joke
they shouldn't steel our symbols
everyone should know that kuffeieh is Palestinian !!
why don't u actually give some actual clues so i could at least believe you !
i don't think history lies ! OK whatever i don't care what have u wore in your British army it doesn't matter to me because i know and i am definatly sure u have no clue what you are talking about and u have no clue about Palestinian history so DO NOT state your opinion when u have 0 information about us.... come live 60 years under occupation then i could hear u speak and maybe consider what you are talking about ! ok ?
In modern India, the swastika is not reviled as a symbol as it is in Europe. Indeed, its pre-Nazi significance still dominates, and it is widely-seen both in explicitly religious settings, and in fashion (as jewellery or pattern motif, etc.). Its meaning is determined by its use. The same applies in the case under discussion here. Whilst it is indisputably true that the keffiyeh has been adopted as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism, this does not mean that this must remain the sole reading of the symbol. In countries I have visited with large Arab populations (mostly in North Africa) the keffiyeh is fairly ubiquitous, and its practical function be far outweighs any political significance it might have. It is not deployed as a political symbol, and thus is not a political symbol.
Similarly, if it is appropriated by people in the "western world" as a fashion statement, or for its practical functionality, divorced of any political intent, then its political significance becomes diminished. Given the inter-connected nature of our modern world, the significance of a symbol around the world can never be ignored. I think though, that if the wearing of any symbol as a fashion statement becomes more widespread than its deployment as a political or religious statement, then it will become the case that the symbol is re-appropriated.
Clearly the weight of influence of a symbol depends on context. It would take an awful lot of people in Europe wearing swastikas for aesthetic impact (or even for their spiritual significance) for the associations of that symbol with the Third Reich to be broken. It is, in principle, possible though.
My advice for the individual would be, if you want to wear your kaffiyeh as a fashion statement or for its utility, do so. If people interpret it as a political statement and judge you as a result, either let them stew in their misconceptions or (more productively) engage them in conversation. Let them know in words what your opinion is on Palestine, or on any other issue. After all, if the symbol is all you offer to people, this is all they have to judge you by. If you engage with people, you get to actively assert the meaning of the symbol for yourself. You might make them reconsider their position or, just as often, you may find yourself reconsidering your own position.
A symbol means whatever you want it to mean, as long as you have the thoughts and words to back it up.
I wouldn't agree with Greg's perception that by supporting Palestinians you are supporting terrorism... because most Palestinans and most of those who show solidarity to Palestinians support the two-state solution. However wearing a keffiyeh would mean that if you were to run into someone like Greg on the street, or even someone who is Jewish and has moderate views it might be interpreted as support for terrorism, because while it doesn't say that you do support terrorism, it doesn't say that you don't either, and it is used by both terrorists, moderate Palestinians and westerners showing solidarity.
Things like this are best left as symbols of identity (i.e. worn by Arabs) rather than symbols of politics.
Like many have said, the keffiyeh was designed with comfort and protection, rather than with political statement, in mind. The people who first donned the Keffiyeh wore it mainly to protect themselves from the elements, dust storm, scorching sun etc. The keffiyeh was merely appropriated/misappropriated by those who want to politicize everyday symbols.
It's kind of like the swastika. The Nazis obviously used it as a brand for their message of hatred that we know so well. But if you look back in history, you'll find that the swastika (though the "fins" faces left, whereas the Nazi's faces right) engraved into the design of wooden artifacts and chiseled in rock from thousands of years ago.
I'll spare you the wikipedia entry, but the swastika was once a philosophical and religious (Hindu & Buddhist) symbol that was unfortunately misappropriated by The Nazis.
Bottomline is, political statements derived from symbols, fashionable or otherwise, aren't absolute.
I suggest that everyone should just take it easy and ... stop being so politically correct. I'm wearing my scarf, and not anyone's political statements on my sleeve.
Saying that it is a symbol like a swastika??? Are you a total moron or do you just play one on the internet? Because Arafat wore one? By that rationalization the Star of David is more like a swastika then anything else.
Sounds stupid, right? It is.
Terrorists wear 'keffiyehs'. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a terrorist.
See what I did there?
Palestinians wear 'keffiyehs' to show nationalism. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a part of or supports Palestine nationality.
'Keffiyeh' style 'accessories' are worn to protect the head, face, and neck in hostile environments. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' wishes to protect the head, neck, or face from hostile environments.
'Keffiyeh' style 'accessories' are worn by citizens of the fashion world. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a fashionista.
Being ignorant while wearing any article of clothing or talisman is stupid.
So's being ignorant while not wearing one.
Shard, that was the best comment ever. Well done.
Greg, your comment is completely ignorant..I was with you up until you likened Palestinians to fanatical murderers and their supporters as people that want to kill Jews. Please, read a little about the subject. Look at statistics. Go check out B'tselem, ICAHD, or one of the other thousands of NGOs in Israel and the oPt. Also, I would suggest watching Occupation 101 (it's on youtube, and if you watch it, please don't just watch the first 2 parts, watch all 10). L
ikewise, this is a shorter video that I encourage everyone to watch regarding Israeli settlers and Palestinian farmers in the West Bank who have linked their communities to protect the environment and build peace.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTa4JARwkyY
http://www.btselem.org/English/
Black and white keffiyeh support Fatah, red and white support Hamas
Wear them and support Palestine!
hope you put political cap on one day and learn about something called BDS _ Palestine needs all the help it can get _ Take Care
Sex Pistols made a song for people like you _
it's called 'Pretty Vacant'
Neither is the keffiyeh a symbol of terrorism. Some terrorists wear them, sure, but what does that mean (especially considering that this is part of the daily attire in most Arab countries)? That's like saying "My cat has fur. My dog has fur. Therefore, my dog is a cat."
The problem isn't with the scarf. The problem is with hipsters, models, celebrities, and jerks who want to make a "statement" when they know nothing and have nothing to say. The problem is with ignorant people who paint others with their own prejudices, and I would rather have THAT off the streets than a scarf.
Neither is the keffiyeh a symbol of terrorism. Some terrorists wear them, sure, but what does that mean (especially considering that this is part of the daily attire in most Arab countries)? That's like saying "My cat has fur. My dog has fur. Therefore, my dog is a cat."
The problem isn't with the scarf. The problem is with hipsters, models, celebrities, and jerks who want to make a "statement" when they know nothing and have nothing to say. The problem is with ignorant people who paint others with their own prejudices, and I would rather have THAT off the streets than a scarf.
Neither is the keffiyeh a symbol of terrorism. Some terrorists wear them, sure, but what does that mean (especially considering that this is part of the daily attire in most Arab countries)? That's like saying "My cat has fur. My dog has fur. Therefore, my dog is a cat."
The problem isn't with the scarf. The problem is with hipsters, models, celebrities, and jerks who want to make a "statement" when they know nothing and have nothing to say. The problem is with ignorant people who paint others with their own prejudices, and I would rather have THAT off the streets than a scarf.