Fashion
The Keffiyeh: Politics or Fashion?
Photo: Keffiyeh-inspired scarves, taken from Runway 2 Reality.
So I'm shopping at the Simon's at Carrefour Laval when I come across a cool black and white scarf. I check out the tag; at $15, the price is right. The decision to buy takes a split second and I power it down to the check-out counter. Later that week, I'm wearing my scarf and knocking back beers with some friends at Foufs when a guy from my alternative media class pops out of nowhere and asks: "Are you trying to make a political statement with that?" "That" turns out to be the scarf. Confused and a little pissed off from being tipsy, I say: "I got this for $15 at Simon's. How political can it be?" The answer turns out to be: very.
After a slight hangover the next day, I get to researching. The scarf I bought at a retail powerhouse? None other than the prime symbol of Palestinian solidarity: the keffiyeh, otherwise known as a shemagh, a ghutra, or a hatta. It's a traditional Arab headdress for men usually made from cotton, folded and wrapped in various ways around the head. Some wear it loosely draped around the back and shoulders. There are many local variations.The all-white ones are popular in the Gulf States, the black and white in the Levant, and the red and white in Jordan.
The keffiyeh grew into a symbol of Palestinian nationalism in the 1960s and eventually became a trademark of late Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat. He wore his black and white scarf in a distinctive arrangement, draping it over his right shoulder in a triangular shape that mimicked the outlines of Palestine. Another Palestinian associated with the keffiyeh is Leila Khaled, formerly of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine (PFLP) and currently a member of the Palestinian National Council. Khaled wore her keffiyeh wrapped around her head and shoulders like a Muslim hijab. Since the keffiyeh was linked to Arab masculinity, many saw this as a political statement of armed equality.
The idea of the keffiyeh as a fashion trend has been around since the '80s, but has enjoyed a massive comeback in recent years. Many college-age Europeans and North Americans see it as a symbol of solidarity with the Palestinian cause or a sign of war resistance in general. It's gotten to the point where even shops like Urban Outfitters and Topshop churned out keffiyehs in a variety of colors like hot pink and dark green. In 2007, Urban Outfitters pulled their "anti-war scarves" from the shelves after much controversy. The subject of "fashion keffiyehs" has been thoroughly dissected by the blogosphere and garnered lots of resistance on the web. On Facebook alone, there at least a handful of anti-"fashion keffiyeh" groups with names like "Palestinian Scarves are the 'fashion-wear' of the cerebrally challenged" and "STOP Fashion Keffiyeh."
Tell the truth, I'm a pussy when it comes to foaming-at-the-mouth political activists and avoid the subject of politics like the dickens. But I think people have a point when they say that wearing the keffiyeh as a fashion statement is insensitive and shallow. I get annoyed when hipsters walk around with a Mao messenger bag (nothing as spacious as a megalomaniacal ego, I suppose), so why should keffiyehs be any different? Think of the hammer and sickle, think of Che Guevara, think of the swastika. No matter how much we'd like to pretend that a scarf is just a scarf, the reality is that symbols can never be divorced from their meanings. So I'm gonna retire my "desert jacquard scarf" from Simon's (pictured above right) since I know jack shit about what it stands for. $15 to broaden my horizons -- the price is right, indeed.
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I got my normal person scarf at Simons for 15$ too. I love how everything in that store seems marked down so you see the price and you're automatically like, "AND it's on sale!"
Great article Sisi. I personally think they look great too. However, I've avoided purchasing one for the exact reasons you've mentioned above. It's always awkward when political statements and aesthetic designs mix. I guess it's unavoidable. Symbols seem to be the way to keep movements alive. I guess most of us have stopped wearing the articles with the Nike swoosh on it, because to some it is a symbol of cheap labour exploitation and sub-human working conditions for the benefit of mass corporate profits. However, does this imply that anyone with a pair of air force ones supports such practices? As much as the swastika disgusts me (and on some days the swoosh too), I'm also sometimes bothered that we have to limit our expression and avoid wearing something as harmless as a scarf just because a few people may get offended. It's really a tough call, which is why I respect your decision to retire it. It's also why I will continue to avoid purchasing such articles myself.
1. G, great comment. I think everyone's got days when they wanna be able to just rock whatever they want without getting dirty looks in the street. I'm totally guilty of owning Nike merchandise when I'm perfectly aware of all the criticism the brand has gotten over the years. But style simply trumps substance sometimes, and that pair of shoes is simply too "cute" to keep at home. I don't think everyone who wears a contentious symbol is a Nazi, but you really have to wonder about their motives sometimes.
2. Mel, I'm curious: do you wear the scarf out and about? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by "normal person scarf." Are you saying that if the scarf is sold at Simon's, then it's harmless?
I've avoided one forever because I don't like wearing political statements. Plus, they don't really go with my Che shirt.
I have one of these, they look awsome, but im such i clutz..how do i wear it..i want it to look like one of those models, but when i attempt it looks nothing like it..can someone show post a vid or diagram?..lol..stupid question..
jeffrey.konig@hotmail.com
Interesting gamut of reactions, including a guest appearance from a guy who totally missed the point of this article.
And Jenny, I'll be the first to admit I'm politically clueless. It did cross my mind that the scarf at Simon's might be a keffiyeh, but I figured a major retailer wouldn't stick something like that on their shelves. I guess both Simon's and I are tools.
That's classic! It was a "stupid question", but not for the reason "the guy" was thinking of!
I share the same skepticism about keffiyehs being sold commercially, but instead of raging against the military-industrial complex, it might be more constructive for people to know that there are a variety of Palestinian groups and organizations that sell these scarves to raise money. If there is a lecture on a university campus near you, chances are there will be a table of goods used for fundraising, and there are also a host of ways to buy keffiyehs online that directly benefit Palestinians or their struggle. This obviously would not help a person like yourself Sisi, who was clueless about the scarf's importance when you bought it, but would certainly be of use if a friend were to ask where to get one. There are ways to buy things ethically.
Although the problem of the keffiyeh being traditionally worn only by ethnic Arabs can be overcome by appealing to the cross-fertilizing of cultures happening not only in the fashion world (although not without a hint of Orientalist mind-set), there is definitely a vague political statement being made when one wears the keffiyeh. That is, it represents an amount of solidarity with the Palestinian cause. Whereas a Palestinian might wear a keffiyeh as a symbol of identity, others who are educated about the situation tend to wear it as a symbol of their sympathy with the struggle. However, as a statement, what does it specifically refer to? It cannot tell you if the wearer believes in and independant Palestinian state or a one-state solution, whether they support a peaceful solution to the conflict or violent resistance. For some Jews, it has become a symbol of anti-Semitism because of its frequent adoption by all sorts of groups. Beyond the different colours representing different political movements, the symbol can only be a vague statement of opinion.
There is another facet to this problem that was not brought up: even among those who consciously wear the keffiyeh to make a political "statement", such a "statement" remains just that, and can be seen as hipsterism if it is not matched with any kind of action. If somebody wears a keffiyeh, can talk about Israel-Palestine, but does nothing with this opinion, then why bother with the political statement in the first place? In this example consumerism is sneakily substituted for concrete action, which is a shame as the conflict is not buried in the past but alive and can be guided/moved forward by mass action.
I don't particularly like Simon's making a profit off the sale of these scarves because it trivializes the reality, and I think it's too bad that people buy them without knowing the issues involved, but at the same time it's good to hear that your experience led to research, whatever your decision about wearing it in the future is. Remember that the person who will confront you aggressively about wearing a keffiyeh might have legitimate concerns about cultural appropriation (for this, check out Dina Awad's piece: http://www.shakomako.net/scarf.html), but might also just be a cultural snob who is hypocritically judging people as hipsters without doing more for the cause than being slightly better informed about what the keffiyeh signifies.
speaking as the guy who lunged out of nowhere, all drunken condescension, i'm impressed you followed it up to this degree. solidly written article.
and you know what? i've got two mao bags and three che shirts.
I want to tell you that I appreciate your decision to stop wearing the keffiyeh after finding out about what it means.
The reasons that you don't wear your keffiyeh are why I don't wear Mao and Che gear: I don't believe in the politics of it. I like Che, but I don't like him enough to wear a shirt about it. I like Mao's ideas (he's actually pretty smart), but I'd never call him an idol, especially for the mess that is Chinese Communism. But, I know these things. a lot of people who wear this stuff don't, and that's why I respect your decision so much.
And, in full disclosure, I just bought two authentic (and high quality, unlike some of these cheap looking ones I see) keffiyehs from an Arab in NYC. While not aiding Palestine (I found out about that after I'd already paid), I am going to wear it to show my solidarity with their efforts to gain a state, even though I don't agree with all strategies being used.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't the keffiyeh made in the first place for comfort? To protect yourself from the sun and sand?
It's now viewed as a political symbol (Yasser Arafat), terrorism symbol(I'm not sure why it's viewed as support towards terrorism, but maybe it's because the Arabs wear them? I'm not sure myself, but I've just heard of it. Someone tell me about this too.), and etc.
But it was made in the beginning before all of this, and it was for a simple reason, to make ourselves comfortable.
So I don't know why we can't take this lightly and see it as just a scarf. For comfort and maybe fashion.
Somone please enlighten me?
Yin, your point about why the keffiyeh was first worn is irrelevant. Swastikas were initially a Hindu and Jainist symbol, but good luck wearing it on clothing to show solidarity with Hindus.
Your point about comfort and practicality is questionable. Why would anyone need to protect themself from the sun and sand in cooler, urban areas and on fashion runways?
The black and white keffiyeh is the most recognizable clothing worn by Palestinian terrorists. Those of you wearing the keffiyeh show solidarity with extremely violent people. You wouldn't wear a white hood like a klansman or a swastika armband like a nazi. Why would you want to wear a keffiyeh like a member of Hamas unless you hated Israel and supported the mass murder of Jews?
The idea that the scarf is inherently political is ridiculous. I am a professional military curator and I can tell you that the trend is as grounded in British military culture (and now to a lesser extent US) as anything else. I wear my MILITARY ISSUE shemagh on a base! Only morons associate and limit the scarves to our "enemies." The British have worn them since WWII and their battles in North Africa. Does that make them pro-terrorist? This topic proves we live in an age of half baked "counter-knowledge" where idiots like Michele Malkin can rail against Racheal Ray based on randomly selected "truths" and base her belief and argument on absolutely NOTHING.
I have an "original" that my husband brought back from the middle east in the 1980's while on UN duty. I think it is beautiful, but I don't wear it. I do believe that it is a garment, first and foremost, and I personally don't have a problem with wearing it, either as a fashion statment or a political statement. As a child I used a large British flag as a cape, while playing in the local woods. I wore an army shirt in the early sixties. I am not a terrorist or a nazi or a british imperialist. The white "scarves" are quite nice. People are now talking about the Palestinian people...ordinary people, and their struggles. Isn.t that a good thing?
I think it is very fashionable. I've been trying to buy one for weeks. And since they banned Rachel Rays commercial for wearing one, I've been seeing them all over the tabloids.
First of all, addressing some ignorant comments, the Palestinian people are not a violent people. One tends to expect violence when you are forced to barely live in your own homeland, when you see your family killed, when you see your home destroyed, etc etc. Let me throw you out of your home and live in and see how you like it.
Second, I love how you stated that you retired from wearing it because you knew "jack-shit" about it. Thank you. It is really annoying to see people wearing it as a fashion statement and not knowing what the hell its means. And if someone does want to wear it as a fashion statement (because they are quite pretty), at least have some knowledge towards the situation in Palestine.
Nice article.
First of all, addressing some ignorant comments, the Palestinian people are not a violent people. One tends to expect violence when you are forced to barely live in your own homeland, when you see your family killed, when you see your home destroyed, etc etc. Let me throw you out of your home and live in and see how you like it.
Second, I love how you stated that you retired from wearing it because you knew "jack-shit" about it. Thank you. It is really annoying to see people wearing it as a fashion statement and not knowing what the hell its means. And if someone does want to wear it as a fashion statement (because they are quite pretty), at least have some knowledge towards the situation in Palestine.
Nice article.
I am so glad someone posted this article. I am a 20 year old college student in Jamaica, and these scarfs have recently become quite fashionable over here. I knew the scarf had some political implications but i had no idea what the big deal was until i read this.
I bought one for myself a couple weeks ago but until i do further research on this topic i will not be rockin' the scarf around town.
I know these scarves are really hott right now but personally i need to know what statement im making with what i wear.
D
hi, my name is sama I'm a 14 year old Palestinian girl who was searching for an article to post on face book against the kuffieh fashion, and i found yours,,,
there had been many debates about this subject since Palestinians started to see what's actually happening to their own symbols! it even got more active when we started to spot some Palestinians wearing those colored kuffiehs !
this is a very serious problem, i think...
i really thank u for your article and i wish there would be much more articles about the Palestinian symbols and the awareness of the Palestinian kuffieh as a very important symbol that means a lot to many Palestinians and Arabs...
this is not a joke
they shouldn't steel our symbols
everyone should know that kuffeieh is Palestinian !!
and o listen Mr.weasel !
why don't u actually give some actual clues so i could at least believe you !
i don't think history lies ! OK whatever i don't care what have u wore in your British army it doesn't matter to me because i know and i am definatly sure u have no clue what you are talking about and u have no clue about Palestinian history so DO NOT state your opinion when u have 0 information about us.... come live 60 years under occupation then i could hear u speak and maybe consider what you are talking about ! ok ?
I think that the connotations of a symbol both determine and are determined by its use. There is no sense in which an item of clothing can, in an ontologically-significant sense, be a political statement. It only becomes one through its use as one. In any given case, people will interpret an individual's wearing of a symbol (be it keffiyeh, Che Guevara shirt, or swastika) in a particular way depending on their own psychology and the situational context. But, over time, and in numbers, the manner in which the symbol is deployed will come to define how the majority of people interpret it.
In modern India, the swastika is not reviled as a symbol as it is in Europe. Indeed, its pre-Nazi significance still dominates, and it is widely-seen both in explicitly religious settings, and in fashion (as jewellery or pattern motif, etc.). Its meaning is determined by its use. The same applies in the case under discussion here. Whilst it is indisputably true that the keffiyeh has been adopted as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism, this does not mean that this must remain the sole reading of the symbol. In countries I have visited with large Arab populations (mostly in North Africa) the keffiyeh is fairly ubiquitous, and its practical function be far outweighs any political significance it might have. It is not deployed as a political symbol, and thus is not a political symbol.
Similarly, if it is appropriated by people in the "western world" as a fashion statement, or for its practical functionality, divorced of any political intent, then its political significance becomes diminished. Given the inter-connected nature of our modern world, the significance of a symbol around the world can never be ignored. I think though, that if the wearing of any symbol as a fashion statement becomes more widespread than its deployment as a political or religious statement, then it will become the case that the symbol is re-appropriated.
Clearly the weight of influence of a symbol depends on context. It would take an awful lot of people in Europe wearing swastikas for aesthetic impact (or even for their spiritual significance) for the associations of that symbol with the Third Reich to be broken. It is, in principle, possible though.
My advice for the individual would be, if you want to wear your kaffiyeh as a fashion statement or for its utility, do so. If people interpret it as a political statement and judge you as a result, either let them stew in their misconceptions or (more productively) engage them in conversation. Let them know in words what your opinion is on Palestine, or on any other issue. After all, if the symbol is all you offer to people, this is all they have to judge you by. If you engage with people, you get to actively assert the meaning of the symbol for yourself. You might make them reconsider their position or, just as often, you may find yourself reconsidering your own position.
A symbol means whatever you want it to mean, as long as you have the thoughts and words to back it up.
Greg's point above is a good reason for even the politically minded not to wear a keffiyeh. People's political views are complicated, an item of clothing is simple.
I wouldn't agree with Greg's perception that by supporting Palestinians you are supporting terrorism... because most Palestinans and most of those who show solidarity to Palestinians support the two-state solution. However wearing a keffiyeh would mean that if you were to run into someone like Greg on the street, or even someone who is Jewish and has moderate views it might be interpreted as support for terrorism, because while it doesn't say that you do support terrorism, it doesn't say that you don't either, and it is used by both terrorists, moderate Palestinians and westerners showing solidarity.
Things like this are best left as symbols of identity (i.e. worn by Arabs) rather than symbols of politics.
I think people need to divorce political and fashion statements. Chances are, a majority of the fashion-conscious are vastly uninformed when it comes to politics. And it's really asking for too much. Second of all, understanding the "political statement" of your scarf does not, actually do much for the betterment of whatever people.
Like many have said, the keffiyeh was designed with comfort and protection, rather than with political statement, in mind. The people who first donned the Keffiyeh wore it mainly to protect themselves from the elements, dust storm, scorching sun etc. The keffiyeh was merely appropriated/misappropriated by those who want to politicize everyday symbols.
It's kind of like the swastika. The Nazis obviously used it as a brand for their message of hatred that we know so well. But if you look back in history, you'll find that the swastika (though the "fins" faces left, whereas the Nazi's faces right) engraved into the design of wooden artifacts and chiseled in rock from thousands of years ago.
I'll spare you the wikipedia entry, but the swastika was once a philosophical and religious (Hindu & Buddhist) symbol that was unfortunately misappropriated by The Nazis.
Bottomline is, political statements derived from symbols, fashionable or otherwise, aren't absolute.
I suggest that everyone should just take it easy and ... stop being so politically correct. I'm wearing my scarf, and not anyone's political statements on my sleeve.
I got one of these for my birthday. I haven't worn it yet because I didn't think I could pull it off. And usually when I see them, others can't either. But today a friend of mine brought up that they are P.L.O. scarves and I thought that was shocking. I googled around and found the above interesting article. I say shocking because I would think that companies like H&M and urban outfitters would know exactly what these scarves mean. I do like the idea that we went from so much military fashion to fashion emphasizing peace and solidarity. I just don't think most people have a clue about the idea. I doubt the girl who bought me the scarf could even tell me who Yassir Arafat is--I also don't think that's a bad thing. I like she just thought I'd look handsome in it...it was innocent of her. And whenever I hear people making fun of things like Engrish, I think about keffiyehs worn by clueless Beverly Hills kids and all the Japanese and Chinese characters we put on our clothes having no idea what they mean for sure.
Almost all of the people above are very ignorant. The Keffiyeh is not a symbol of violence or terrorism. That's the equivalent of identifying the Deutschland flag with Nazism. Wearing a Shemagh does not mean you are a Palestinian (and relating a Palestinian with a member of the Taliban is prejudice and labels you a racist) a Muslim or an Al'Qaeda supporter. I wear my Shemagh to show my support for struggling Palestinians. I do not hate Israel or America, I do not fly planes into buildings and I am in no way a Muslim fundamentalist.
I just want to say that I ordered my kaki and black one from the UK, where it is standard issue for some military units. Not too mention it is very common to see American troops in Iraq and Afghanistan wearing them.
Saying that it is a symbol like a swastika??? Are you a total moron or do you just play one on the internet? Because Arafat wore one? By that rationalization the Star of David is more like a swastika then anything else.
I thought it was a great looking scarf when I saw if worn on a TV personality. Then watching another of my fav shows another man was wearing one as well and I began to wonder if it was more of a statement than a fashion accessory since they looked they same but different color. In researching it I was lead to the "keffiyeh". I still don't know if these TV personalities are wearing it because it's the latest fad or are making a statement. I like them though and the one being worn above looks awesome on you. Too bad people can't appreciate it for the fashion item it is and not the political crap.
Terrorists wear shirts. Anybody who wears a shirt is a terrorist.
Sounds stupid, right? It is.
Terrorists wear 'keffiyehs'. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a terrorist.
See what I did there?
Palestinians wear 'keffiyehs' to show nationalism. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a part of or supports Palestine nationality.
'Keffiyeh' style 'accessories' are worn to protect the head, face, and neck in hostile environments. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' wishes to protect the head, neck, or face from hostile environments.
'Keffiyeh' style 'accessories' are worn by citizens of the fashion world. Anybody who wears a 'keffiyeh' is a fashionista.
Being ignorant while wearing any article of clothing or talisman is stupid.
So's being ignorant while not wearing one.
I love my keffiyeh and will will wear it because it is pretty.