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Food

Bone Snack: Ribs at Coco Rico

Posted by Kim / July 18, 2007

20071607_coco7.jpgDuring a somewhat drunken viewing of the film Grindhouse, the carnivorous craving hit. Unlikely really, considering the subject matter. But on the screen, a red neon sign displayed what I read to be “Bone Snack” (really it read Bone Shack, but hey, that’s what alcohol can do to someone). Instantly the movie was paused, and out we went to get ourselves some of this Bone Snack. Seeing as the craving was fairly urgent, it made sense to go to the closest Bone Snack dealer, Coco Rico on St-Laurent Blvd. It turns out that this Portuguese grill, one of the city’s many, offers up the best ribs I have ever had the pleasure of devouring.

20071607_coco2.jpgConsistently winning first place in the Best of Montreal reader's poll for its BBQ chicken, and often finding its place into the best Portuguese category, Coco Rico is obviously a favourite among Montreal residents. However, I feel like it’s winning in the wrong category. The chicken is fine - juicy, with a lightly spiced skin, but it’s not the reigning champion of chicken. I prefer the juicier, meatier bird at Romados, made with a variety of spices like paprika, garlic and chilies that compliments the chicken much more. Coco Rico does, though, offer up the best ribs I have ever tasted, and I know ribs.
20071607_coco9.jpgThere are two tricks to making good ribs: the method of cooking them and the sauce or rub that they are cooked with. Rarely do I find places that are doing both correctly, but Coco Rico’s ribs are really the best of both worlds. The meat literally does fall off the bone – a little tug with your teeth at one end, and you’ll be left with the entire bone’s plentiful offerings. The meat is incredibly tender, barely needing more than one or two chews to get through it. And its taste! Sweet, but not overly so, with a smoky and slightly spicy and garlicky tinge to it. The paprika stands out, but doesn’t overburden the BBQ quality of the meat, or the taste of the meat itself. I can’t think of a better title for this food than Bone Snack – I found myself gnawing on the bones and sucking every bit of sauce off them.
20071607_coco5.jpgFor about $18/kilo, you can feed two people with these succulent ribs, so for under $20. To round out the meal a little more, Coco Rico also has great potatoes, roasted with chicken fat dripping all over them. If you’re trying to be a little healthier, the restaurant also offers salads and pickles as side dishes. But really, if you’re going to be chewing on Bone Snack, what’s the point?

Coco Rico
3907 St-Laurent
514-849-5554

Discussion

11 Comments

David / July 20, 2007 at 04:48 pm
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After reading this, I feel the urgent need to rush out - hurry, hurry - to get me some of these bones to gnaw on. Forget the potatoes, although they do sound good, just give me dem bones!
Sharleen / July 24, 2007 at 07:13 pm
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After reading Kim's review on bone snack, I and the family went to check this place out. We ordered ribs, chicken and potatoes and found everything to be yummy. Thanks Kim, for telling us about this one. We're looking forward to reading your next food/restaurant review.
Sami / July 26, 2007 at 03:05 am
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I agree about Romados having the better chicken, because great charcoal-grilled butterflied chicken is better than great rotisserie chicken (this being said though Cocorico's rotisserie chicken is quite excellent.) Romados however always has long lines in the evenings and closes early.

I wish Cocoricos had some good healthy sides, the coleslaw and wet carrot salad are a weak point.
Ken Sloan / July 28, 2007 at 12:59 am
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Oh no! I can't believe it. There was a time when I could walk by Coco Rico and enjoy the aroma being pushed out the side of the building. Now it triggers a gag reflex. I've only eaten there once, but the chicken and pork were so ridiculously overcooked that the meat was beyond off-the-bone tender, it was reduced to mush, the skin shriveled up and glistening with grease. Perhaps one day in the very far future I'll be able to give it another chance with "bone snacks" though. Maybe. Possibly. If I'm drunk enough.
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