Not long ago, I was doing some internet research on bagels (what else would I be doing at 7 o’clock on a Sunday morning?). I came across a rather lengthy article comparing the virtues of Fairmount Bagel and St. Viateur Bagel. According to the article, a heated debate has been going on among Montreal’s bagel enthusiasts regarding the superiority of Fairmount over St. Viateur or vice versa.

Since it had been a couple of months since I’d been to either establishment, I decided to refresh my memory and perhaps take a position in the Great Bagel Debate.

My first stop was Fairmount bagels. The place was so packed that I could barely reach my purse to get my wallet out. When I got to the counter, I ordered a cinnamon-raisin bagel and rushed to pay so as not to hold up the line. The sullen woman at the cash register gave me my bagel without a word.

I walked out of the shop and took my small, perfectly round bagel out of its paper bag to taste it at its freshest. I took a bite and… eh, it was okay. It was a little too chewy and a little too bland. I realized why I couldn’t remember what Fairmount bagels tasted like before. They’re just not memorable.

I headed on over to St. Viateur, and my spirits began to lift before I even entered the shop. Just down the street from St. Viateur Bagel is none other than… Patisserie Pagel. It’s straight out of Dr. Seuss.

When I walked into the bagel shop, I was hit by a powerful whiff of fresh bagels. I hadn’t noticed that aroma in the Fairmount shop, perhaps because I was distracted by the throng. St. Viateur Bagel was much more spacious and less crowded.

When I got to the counter, I ordered another cinnamon-raisin bagel. The cashier looked at me and casually said “I’ll give you two for the price of one, since we’re almost out of those.” My delight was audible.

Compared to Fairmount’s dainty little bagelettes, St. Viateur’s bagels look rather monstrous. They’re much bigger and somewhat misshapen, with tumours of dough protruding from their crusts. As I passed by Patisserie Pagel, I took my first bite. My bagel was soft and sweet, with a soft crust and moist innards.

I may have caught Fairmount Bagel on an off day, or maybe my bagel wasn’t as fresh as it should have been. But that doesn’t change the fact that the bagel I had at St. Viateur tasted better. St. Viateur’s had the sweet, moist density that defines Montreal bagels while Fairmount’s was basically tough circular bread. And in my opinion, size matters. Compared to St. Viateur’s bagels, Fairmount’s were more like bagel-bites.

St. Viateur Bagel Shop; 263 St. Viateur West; (514)276-8044
Fairmount Bagel; 74 Fairmount West; (514)272-0667