I can’t explain it, but sometimes I feel like being a vegetarian. Most of the time, I like my steak as thick and juicy as the next person. But every so often, the thought of eating meat becomes completely unappealing. When these fleeting vegetarian cravings strike, I’ve come to depend on Café Lola Rosa on Milton to satisfy them.

I haven’t always been a fan of the café. On my first trip there, I found the place overwhelming. The Tibetan-themed décor seemed cheesy, and so were the excessively happy waitresses who never seemed to stop smiling. The restaurant was so cramped and noisy that I kept squirming in my chair. My hemp burger failed to improve my mood, because it was so crumbly that it fell apart at the slightest touch. My friend and I wanted to order dessert, but the waitress took so long to resurface that we eventually just paid our bill and left.

Miraculously, Lola Rosa has grown on me over the years. The cramped space and the lackadaisical service certainly leave much to be desired, and a couple of items on the menu shouldn’t be there. But when the chefs at Lola Rosa get it right, they really get it right. The vegetarian chili, for example, is perfect. Black beans, kidney beans, onions and peppers are mixed into a hearty tomato sauce with just enough of a spicy kick. Lola Rosa’s veggie burger is also satisfyingly tasty, and the burrito makes for a nice hearty meal.

The desserts at Lola Rosa aren’t as creative as the main courses, but some of them can really hit the spot. My vegetarian friend raves about the chocolate cake, which is extremely rich and moist, but Lola Rosa’s Key lime pie carries a special place in my heart. With a drizzle of raspberry sauce on top, it has the perfect balance of richness and tartness and its graham cracker crust is extremely moist and buttery. And, as the menu stresses, it’s vegetarian.

The prices are a tad higher than you’d expect for such a small café (about $17 for dinner and dessert), but unless you order the hemp burger, you’ll be getting what you pay for.

I still can’t tolerate the weekend crowds crammed into the little café, but I’m starting to appreciate Lola Rosa’s appeal. Sure, the plethora of Buddha sculptures (there’s one on almost every available surface) might be a little excessive, but the café’s cheesiness is part of its charm. And anyway, on the not-so-rare occasions when I’m satisfying my inner vegetarian at Lola Rosa, something about those little Buddhas makes me feel a bit more at one with the universe.

Café Lola Rosa; 545 Milton; (514)287-9337