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Montreal Bagel Throwdown: Fairmount vs. St-Viateur

Posted by Amie / July 12, 2010

Montreal Bagel Throwdown: Fairmount vs. St-ViateurTHE CRITERIA: Freshness, Sweetness, Texture, Crust, Size, Overall Bagel Experience

Montreal Bagel ThrowdownThe Methodology: To objectively compare Montreal's finest bagel establishments I drove from bagel shop to bagel shop, having a few bites of the fresh bagels and taking notes just after purchasing. At the end of the trip I did a direct comparison between all the bagels purchased. The following day there was another comparison of all the bagels purchased (the photo above with lemon as a palate-cleanser. Bagels are serious business). While this was mainly a comparison of Fairmount and St-Viateur bagels, to cover all the bagel ground in the city, I also compared D.A.D.'s Bagels and R.E.A.L Bagel. Sesame seed and Poppy seed bagels were purchased at each bagel shop, along with unique or specialty bagels at certain establishments, but for the the purposes of this study, only the sesame and poppy seed bagels were used to determine the winners in each category.

The 5 bagel shops tested were (in order of purchase):
D.A.D.'s Bagel (5732 Sherbrooke West), R.E.A.L. Bagel (6160 chemin de la Cote-Saint-Luc), St-Viateur Bagel (263 St-Viateur West), St-Viateur Bake Shop (158 St-Viateur West), and Fairmount Bagel (74 Fairmount West)

A Brief History: Fairmount is the original Montreal bagel shop, but long before there were "Fairmount bagels", there were Chaim Seligman and Isadore Shlafman. In 1919 Shlafman started selling bagels in an alley off St-Laurent, but according to Jewish historian, Joe King, Seligman was the original bagel guy, selling his strings of bagels from the back of a horse-drawn buggy up and down St-Laurent. Seligman then went into business with Jack Shlafman (of the Fairmount lineage) and a new-to-the-scene bagel-maker, Myer Lewkowicz. That didn't last long. One big falling-out later, the Shlafmans moved into the current Fairmount Bagel location in 1949 and Seligman and Lewkowicz got it together to open St-Viateur in 1957. The names and the traditions were born, and they were connected. In 1963 Joe Morena took over St-Viateur. Flash forward to the 1990's and Montreal-style bagel offspring R.E.A.L. Bagel and D.A.D.'s Bagel (I don't think there's any real blood connection. Definitely not with D.A.D.'s Bagel, whose owners are Punjabi) opened, using the same bagel-making method.
R.E.A.L. BagelThe Bagel: There are only 8 ingredients in a Montreal-style bagel. These are flour, sugar, yeast, oil, honey, egg, malt, and Montreal water. The quantities and quality of the ingredients are what make the difference. They're what make your bagel slightly more of less stale the next day (more or less egg probably), determine the fluffiness of the dough (type and quantity of flour based on amount of gluten, amount of oil, amount of egg, and use of honey in the dough itself which will make it dryer) and the all-important sweetness (whether honey is used in addition to sugar in the kneaded dough, and the flavour of the malt). The standard these days is to use an unbleached white flour, though each shop's brand of choice may differ and may have changed over the years.
St-ViateurIn all of the above establishments similar bagel-making equipment and methods are used. The ingredients are mixed and kneaded in a giant dough-making machine, then left to rise for about 45 minutes. The huge block of dough is then sliced into bagel-width strips and hand-rolled and twisted, one at a time, into bagel shapes. The bagels get thrown into a big vat of simmering honey-water that looks a bit like a deep-fryer, for about 5 minutes. They then get fished out, dragged through sesame or poppy seeds, and placed in lines on long, thin, planks of wood, and baked in an open wood-fired oven for 10 minutes.
Inconsistent BakingWhat happens in the oven is very important. The bagels start close to the heat for about 5 minutes, then are slowly moved away from the flames to finish on the cooler side of the oven. The inconsistency and unpredictability of the flames are what give the bagels the darker-in-some-spots look. They're also what turn the sesame seeds into a real topping, so you feel like you're eating a bagel slathered with toasted, delicious nuts when it comes out fresh, instead of a bagel covered in something generically chewy. The poppy seeds get toasted too, but the effect isn't quite the same. So for sesame bagels you don't really need anything on top of them, but smoked salmon or cream cheese, or both, work really well. Since there's no salt in the bagels themselves, adding smoked salmon doesn't feel like you're eating a week's worth of sodium.

THE RESULTS
St-ViateurFreshness: St-Viateur
It has to be fresh! The most important revelation of this taste-test was that all of these bagels were good as long as they were hot out of the oven. Be warned, bagel-eaters, that while all these places use wood-burning ovens, Fairmount actually uses an electric oven for its wholesale operation. So if you buy outside of the Fairmount bagel shop you're not getting the real deal.

Sesame was the most popular flavour at all the bagel shops, and it was the only one that was ever really fresh. Not that it's a better flavour, just that more people buy it, so if you prefer poppy seed you have your work cut out for you to either find a consistent way of getting your bagels while they're hot (a bagel bell?) or make poppy seed bagels more popular so they're baked more often. St-Viateur doesn't even make a new batch of poppy seed until the last ones are almost gone, but their sesame bagel was my best bagel of the day. R.E.A.L. Bagel and Fairmount were both working on batches of sesame at the time of purchase so if you want more fresh poppy seed bagels in Montreal you'll need to start an uprising to turn the market trend in your flavour favour.

D.A.D.'s BagelsD.A.D's bagel only bakes in the morning and at night, so if you come during the day there's absolutely no way your bagel will be really fresh. The sesame at R.E.A.L. Bagel was warm, but not hot. Not good enough. At Fairmount, like St-Viateur, only the sesame was fresh. Forget about buying at the grocery store; you need to go to the source. Often in the bake shops themselves they'll even sell you the cooler bagels because that's what makes financial sense - get rid of the old product to bring in new - but that's not what you want. It has to be hot.
Fairmount BagelSweetness: Fairmount
D.A.D.'s was too sweet, R.E.A.L. Bagel was bland, and St-Viateur was just neutral. Normally I would say the sugar wasn't really necessary, just addictive, but you're dealing with multiple kinds of sweetness from the sugar, honey and malt. The most flavour comes from the malt, and so Fairmount's higher malt and sweetness created more overall flavour for the bagel. I'll be honest, I could taste the difference in sweetness a lot more the day after, once the bagels had cooled down, but when the bagels were fresh it was a tough comparison. I kept trying the St-Viateur and Fairmount the day after to make sure I wasn't wrong about the sweetness, but Fairmount was just better.
St-Viateur Bake ShopBest Texture: St-Viateur
The texture was so smooth and soft without being doughy, but ONLY when it was fresh. Fairmount was a bit fluffier, but I only preferred this the day after, when St-Viateur became very crunchy and hard but Fairmount stayed relatively chewy. I'm certainly not going to buy a bagel for its 'day-after' attributes. R.E.A.L. Bagel and D.A.D's just couldn't compete in this category because the texture was automatically not as good when the bagels weren't hot. It shouldn't feel like work to chew a Montreal bagel.
St-Viateur vs. FairmountBest Crust: St-Viateur and Fairmount Sesame Bagels
There's really only a good crust when the bagels are hot. You can re-toast, which is fine, but your toaster or toaster-oven is not a wood-burning bagel oven. Both St-Viateur and Fairmount sesame bagels (because they were the only really fresh ones) had a crispy, nutty outside to contrast the smooth, luscious inside.

Size: St-Viateur
St-Viateur, both the shop and wholesale bakery, were the only place to consistently and correctly size all their bagels, from sesame and poppy seed to all-dressed and cinnamon raisin. Montreal bagels are not big and fluffy. This is not a roll. This is not a pillow of flour-y fluff. This is smaller, finer affair.

Fairmount had well-sized poppy seed and sesame but the others expanded from there. Honestly, I liked the blueberry bagel and cinnamon raisin a lot, but not as Montreal-style bagels. A purist would reject them outright. Pumpernickel had a pretty good flavour, but muesli was just weird. Maybe if you live on muesli but are dying for a bagel you'll appreciate it more? R.E.A.L. bagel seemed huge by comparison, though their sourdough (made without eggs and sugar) was actually really good and deliciously tangy from a good sourdough culture, but the size and flavour made it more like bread than a bagel. Perfect for a bagel sandwich, but not really a Montreal-style bagel at all. The R.E.A.L. Bagel poppy seed version was more appropriately 'Montreal', so the bagel-roller was just a little inconsistent. D.A.D.'s were a good size but just by looking at the batch made that morning you could tell that the consistency just wasn't the same as St-Viateur.

Overall Bagel Experience: St-Viateur

I'll be honest, all these bagels are very similar. What can set a bagel apart is the experience that goes along with its purchase. St-Viateur (263 St-Viateur West) was hands-down the friendliest place I went into. Yes, there was a steady stream of patrons, but never did I feel rushed out of there. Actually it was kind of hard to leave because I started asking questions like I always do and ended up in a long conversation with the man at the cash. He'd started coming in as a patron Friday night/morning (it is 24 hours), buying some bagels, and hanging out for a few hours. It got to the point where the owner said that if he was going to come in every week and hang out, he might as well work while he was there.

And he's been working there ever since. He chats with customers, but he doesn't waste time. Now this is just one worker, and on a different day at a different time I could have had a different experience, but St-Viateur is cultivating that family-friendly appearance that makes you feel welcome and invited. This was emphasized by the total contrast of walking into Fairmount and feeling crowded and unwelcome. The ordering space isn't any smaller than St-Viateur, but it feels more closed off from the bagel ovens, and getting to the cash feels like a pressure situation. Go, go, go! Pay! Get out! I started asking questions, which was not appreciated. Pictures were frowned upon. The cashiers couldn't tell me exactly how the different bagels were made or even what was in them. They were just employees, not people who cared about and knew about the bagels.

At R.E.A.L. Bagel I had another good experience, and the guy at the cash was a little tickled that I had such an interest in the bagels. I mean, it's not St-Viateur or Fairmount, so tourists don't head out to that bagel shop too often to discuss the finer points of bagel-making. D.A.D.'s was also wonderful. The friendly man explained that while the shop is both a place for 24 Hour bagels and Indian food, it started out as just bagels. THAT is what his family figured would sell in Montreal at the time. they were right, but the tandoori chicken looked amazing. Convenience store food this is not. If you like Indian snack food, like bhajis, get them fresh. The home-made samosas stay at their best a bit longer, but not all night. So this place has more than bagels going for it.

Walking into all these places it was incredible to see how far the Montreal bagel has come. Joe Morena, the owner of St-Viateur after Lewkowicz, summed it up in 1988 when he said,

"What I really am is living proof that you don't have to be Jewish to make or love bagels."
Thanks, Joe. Montreal can be proud to call you its own. The diverse bagel establishments in this city all do a great job, and as long as the bagels are fresh, you won't be disappointed at any one of them.
But...


OVERALL WINNER: St-Viateur
While I actually prefer the taste of Fairmount, loyalty is what the Montreal bagel is really all about, and I want to give my loyalty to the St-Viateur company. They seem to care more about the bagels, and their bagel-making and selling philosophy. When you walk in to the shop you feel like you're walking into Montreal history, not a commercial operation. While I wouldn't turn down a bagel from D.A.D.'s if I was in NDG late one night, and I wouldn't turn down a trip to R.E.A.L. bagel if I was out by cote-st-luc, on the Queen Mary (4940 chemin Queen-Mary), or near the original in Dollard-des-Ormeaux (3702 boulevard Saint-Jean, Dollard-des-Ormeaux), I am slowly placing myself in a St-Viateur bagel-loyalty group.

Hopefully I'll have lots more Fairmount bagels before I turn into an old person in a rockin' chair telling stories to anyone who'll listen that start with, "Back in my day, when Morena was running St-Viateur, long after the original Shlafman had passed on his Fairmount legacy, people swore by the best Montreal bagel..."

To listen to a radio program describing this Bagel-testing adventure, follow the link to the CKUT archived audio stream of the Friday Morning After Show from July 9th, 2010. The bagel discussion can be found half-way through the stream.

Discussion

43 Comments

Laura / July 12, 2010 at 03:11 pm
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Yes st viateur. I agree with pretty much everything you've said here.

On another note, from one foodie to another, I have a question for you.
I still feel relatively new to montreal even though Ive been here since january and Im dying to make one of my favorite summer snack foods now the weather is more appropriate-

http://www.trotski-ash.com/2010/05/recipes/fried-haloumi-with-crushed-prunes/
but I need a good turkish grocer for real haloumi.. any ideas?
Max / July 13, 2010 at 09:43 am
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Hey Laura,

Try looking at one of the adonis store, they have good haloum there!
http://www.adonisproducts.com/pages/Speciaux_fr.asp
Enjoy!

Amie replying to a comment from Laura / July 13, 2010 at 10:47 am
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Hmm...there's also Supermarché Mourelatos (multiple locations including 1621 St-Catherine West). There's apparently a place called 'Marche Istanbul' at St-Laurent north of Cremazie (8780 St-Laurent) and more downtown is La Vieille Europe on St-Laurent north of des Pins (3855 St-Laurent). I'm not sure but it's possible Marche Akhavan would have it (6170 Sherbrooke West).

Here are the rest of the Mourelatos locations:
http://www.mourelatos.com/ourstores.html

Good luck with your delicious-looking recipe!
Margot / July 13, 2010 at 01:03 pm
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AS IF ST-VIATEUR won over FAIRMOUNT!?
Sean / July 13, 2010 at 01:20 pm
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so wait, fairmount makes lighter, better tasting bagels but yet it loses? fairmount is the best bagel in Canada, St. Viateur is merely the best bagel shop west of fairmount
Amie replying to a comment from Sean / July 13, 2010 at 07:08 pm
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Fairmount did win one very important category, Margot!! That's why I didn't put a clear winner at the top, because it's so much more complicated than 1st place and 2nd place.

Sean, Fairmount is also definitely the best east of St-Viateur...Besides, I'm just one opinion. I tried to give you the objective bagel facts taste-wise, but the subjective taste preferences are all mine. It'd be a shame if one of the shops closed because everyone went to one and not the other.

I guess you, like me, like your bagels sweeter, and if I could walk into Fairmount blindfolded I'd buy them more often. I might not get my bagel served with a smile that way, but I can guarantee I wouldn't get one served with a frown.
Vanessa (LadyGrey) / July 13, 2010 at 10:06 pm
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This is fantastic!
I did a much smaller version of this challenge a while back on my blog and St. Viateur won as well!
http://www.heyladygrey.com/2010/03/montreal-bagel-challenge-st-viateur-vs.html
Jane / July 15, 2010 at 11:34 am
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You haven't tried my favorite place, Mount Royal Bagel. This is one truly special bagel place. They would definetly win in every category, making them overall the most amazing Montreal bagel! Check them out, they are located at 709 Lucerne in TMR.
Jane / July 15, 2010 at 11:34 am
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You haven't tried my favorite place, Mount Royal Bagel. This is one truly special bagel place. They would definetly win in every category, making them overall the most amazing Montreal bagel! Check them out, they are located at 709 Lucerne in TMR.
Jewels / August 16, 2010 at 08:51 am
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We were at Fairmount on Saturday morning. The staff could not have been friendlier. We got two bagels, with cream cheese and lox, the bakers all smiling, photos were taken, no problem. Maybe they heard about your review and were told to be nice. Delish bagels!
Amie / August 16, 2010 at 08:59 am
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That's great to hear! Everyone has their off-days, but if Fairmount can be consistently a friendly place, then St-Viateur's going to feel the pressure. Glad your bagels were delicious!
Batch ovens / October 28, 2010 at 03:50 am
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mark l / November 8, 2010 at 04:27 pm
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for the best bagels in Motnreal and the only Kosher MK - and vegan and pumpernickle and Mezonos I enjoyed Mount Roayl Bagel the best - little known in the Town of Mount Royal at 709 Lucerne corner Jean Talon. They start baking fresh every morning at 5 a.m. - The Best
flo / November 28, 2010 at 04:40 am
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For the best bagel... go to New York :O

That's right, I like the fluffy pillowy goodness, and also getting away from this sesame obsession, I'm a poppy man.

Also the butter chicken at DADs is to die for.
Amie / November 28, 2010 at 08:40 am
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Is there a place in Montreal that does a NY style bagel, or something sort of resembling it? I'll admit I actually love poppyseed too, but only when there are toppings added to the bagel. There's this place in Brooklyn that makes amazing bagels, and the lox...
S Lloyd / November 29, 2010 at 09:01 pm
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I have been leaving in Montreal for 15 years and shame on me: I never tried the one on Saint Viateur. On the other hand, I am a regular of Fairmount, which I find really good
sigi N / November 29, 2010 at 10:09 pm
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I used to like Dad's but lately I have been enjoying Mount Royal Bagel Bakery. They are Kosher and have a huge variety and that NY style Pretzel with lots of salt. They are the only Bagel place in the North - Jean Talon and Lucerne and I bring them to all my friends in NY that want Montreal style - and Vegan too... delicious
Leigh / November 30, 2010 at 10:04 am
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I'm tried the various Montreal style bagels, and I have to say Mount Royal Bagel is my favorite. Firstly, all of their bagels, both retail and wholesale, are cooked in the wood burning oven. Secondly, I agree St-Viateur is rather plain tasting; however, I find Fairmount to also be plain once they are more than a day old. Mount Royal Bagels are very flavorful, even when you freeze them for over a week. Lastly, I love to take bagels when I go hiking. Mount Royal Bagels are the only bagel that maintains a fresh taste for a hiking trip. All other bagels I have tried become dry with an odd consistency of brittle and difficult to chew.

So Mount Royal Bagels top my personal list for best Montreal style bagel.
Seray / November 30, 2010 at 01:08 pm
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I agree with the above comment from Leigh! Mount Royal Bagels are hands down Montreal's best bagel. I've tried Fairmount and St. Viateur and they aren't even comparable to Mount Royal Bagel. There is just something so unique about Mount Royal Bagels. Take my word on it that nothing beats Mount Royal Bagel. Try it for yourself and see what I'm talking about!
Carsie / November 30, 2010 at 01:20 pm
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Mount Royal Bagels are no doubt Montreal's best bagels. I've tried Fairmount and St.Viateur and they are not even comparable to Mount Royal Bagels. Try it for yourself and you'll be hooked on Mount Royal.
Ryan / December 20, 2010 at 12:39 pm
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I love Mount Royal Bagel! Their bagels are truly my favorite and Montreal's absolute best!
Aldo / December 31, 2010 at 05:42 pm
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St Viatuer has always been my favorite. They are probably the best in the World! Was there last night and got a couple of dozen. I'm from Toronto so we have to stop every time we go down. The staff on the register could be friendlier. Ah well.......good luck to them all.
Petra / August 11, 2012 at 03:30 pm
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I have to disagree. Fairmount is by far the better bagel. It's just a shame that St. Viateur has the name. But i will admit i have hardly gone to fairmount since i moved to the west island. I now go to Bagel D'Louest. Hands down better than St. Viateur and neck in neck with Fairmount as far as product is concerned.
Joe / August 15, 2012 at 07:01 am
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Ok, good to see Mount Royal bagel has mobilised its publicity team to beef up its reputation!
Paul / September 15, 2012 at 09:02 am
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Does anyone have any comments about Brossard Bagel compares? It's the one closest to where I live.
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