Tuesday, October 22, 2019Light Snow -5°C

Chez Boris, the alternative doughnut

Posted by Gabby / July 12, 2012

Chez BorisMidnight Poutine guest contributor Jessica Wei is ready to set out and find the best, the tastiest and the crunchiest of the city's food scene. First up on the docket is Chez Boris, a Russian doughnut shop that opened about three weeks ago on Park avenue.

Don't worry, I didn't know what Russian donuts were, either.

I had heard whispers of this new culinary delight around town, once from a buddy's roommate who'd heard about it from a coworker, and again from a hip Mile End chick who had passed by this three-week young eatery and snatched a sample. Does Russia have its own Dunkin' Donuts scene going on? Are they better than the frozen molds of dough at Tim Hortons?

(Answer: yes).

And, of course, when I stepped off the 80 bus, saw the blank white sign, and found myself under the glow of overhanging milk jug lighting fixtures, the questions kept coming. Still as I sat down at one of their mismatched communal-style tables and peered at the trilingual blackboard menus, more questions eluded me. For example: what is "Kvas"? And "café sovietique", what's that about?

I can't imagine how many times they get that question, those guys - Durr... Russian donuts? - so when I asked Boris Volfson, the friendly young proprietor and namesake of this curious Outremont café, he didn't miss a beat.

Chez Boris doughnut

They're like normal donuts, he explained, only smaller, yeast-based, and lighter both in texture and sweetness. In Russia, the donuts are typically machine-turned and served to order, topped off with a dusting of powdered sugar, but Chez Boris, they're handmade batch by batch throughout the day and come in a variety of flavours and styles. The basic donut comes in cinnamon, strawberry, and the traditional powdered sugar for the delectable price of $0.60 each, but if you're feeling adventurous, just ask Boris about his latest experiment.

Chez Boris savoury doughnuts

Boris, in a backwards baseball cap with flour dotting his nose, will tell you about his Pork Belly donut, a parade of textures in the form of pork belly, hoisin sauce, cucumber and green onion, all perched high atop a golden unpowdered donut - an homage, apparently, to Momofuku in New York. Or his home-cured salmon donut, accompanied by sour cream, capers, and dill so fresh you can almost taste the soil at the tip of your tongue. They procure the salmon at a market down the street, the dill from a friend's garden, the pork belly from Chinatown, and they try to source as many of his ingredients as possible as locally as possible ("But the capers are probably from P&A or something," he adds).

This Xzibit level of donut-pimping is decidedly not a traditional Russian practice. This is all just a very inspired St. Petersburg native who left his IT job behind to help to bring the donut scene to life in this city with his business partner, Grant Rummel.

Chez Boris

So, the Kvas. Kvas is refreshing. Kvass is a healthy hit of fruity effervescence right where you need it on a Montreal-sweltering day. In more concrete terms, Kvas is a drink derived from fermented rye bread, flavoured with apple (but it changes every day as these boys dream of more fruits - traditionally, it's made with raisins). Some people liken it to Kombucha, but without the vinegary taste and hippy associations.

Other beverages include tea from Montreal's own Pure Tea and coffee from BC-based 49th Parallel.

And the rest? Still wondering about that café sovietique? Go see Boris. He'll be the guy in the apron behind the counter waving at you with floury hands.

Chez Boris
5151 Ave. du Parc
Mon: 8:00 am-6:00 pm
Wed - Fri: 8:00 am-6:00 pm
Sat - Sun: 10:00 am-8:00 pm



Glutton / July 29, 2012 at 07:55 pm
Sixty cents a donut? Boris, you could go to Toronto and charge FOUR TIMES that.
Natasha / September 5, 2012 at 10:01 am
EXCITED!!! LOVE RYSKIE PONCHIKI!!! :))) spreading the word! too bad they are open only till 6
Carmen / September 25, 2012 at 10:24 pm
Hello i am kavin, its my first time to commenting anywhere, when i read
this article i thought i could also make comment due to this sensible paragraph.
Boris / September 27, 2012 at 05:12 pm
@Natasha: We are now open till 8 pm.
@Glutton: We now charge 75 cents a doughnut (taxes included) ;).
@Midnigntpoutine: You rock.

license music / September 21, 2014 at 04:43 am
I pay a quick visit everyday a few sites and information sites to
read articles, except this weblog provides feature
based writing.
felixstowe sticker printing / October 7, 2014 at 12:38 am
whoah this weblog is excellent i really like studying your articles.
Stay up the good work! You recognize, many persons are
hunting round for this information, you can aid them greatly.
game of war fire age maps / November 28, 2014 at 09:50 am
Get Unlimited resources by downloading our game of war fire age
hack for free.
You made some respectable factors there. I regarded on the web for the issue
and found most people will go together with with your website.

Would you be fascinated about exchanging hyperlinks?
ArronLWinnett / July 23, 2015 at 05:40 pm
Hi my loved one! I wish to say that this post is amazing,
great written and include approximately all significant infos.
I'd like to peer more posts like this .
under armour curry shoes / November 23, 2015 at 03:25 am
Clicking on one of those top level categories brings up new options to choose from, like color families, brand names,
grosfillex chairs uk / February 24, 2016 at 07:31 pm
As of Might two, 2015, Ross Shops had 1,242 locations in 33 states,
the District of Columbia and Guam.
pompanette / February 28, 2016 at 02:27 am
Now you can share your interview encounter using the app!
Rosaura / February 2, 2017 at 12:23 am
I did this with my personal cell phone, which ' unlike my work Blackberry ' had no password on it.

There's enough pressure already on men and women to
have 'perfect' sex, so why should the pornography industry promote this unrealistic ideal.
Always see the kid off with a hug, kiss or an "I love you" before they leave the house
or go to bed.
Kanchipuram sarees / June 5, 2018 at 05:20 am
nice post
golu dolls / June 5, 2018 at 05:21 am
nice post
Kanchipuram silk Sarees / June 30, 2018 at 10:22 pm
nice post
golu dolls / June 30, 2018 at 10:22 pm
nice post

Add a Comment

Other Cities: Toronto